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Freelance Writing, Editing, and Design
A Spot of Tea, Anyone?
The Basically British Tea Room, Warren RI
No one does tea better than the British. And whether you're a connoisseur or a tea novice, you'll find something
to your taste at the Basically British Tea Room in Warren, RI. Located in the Cutler Mills on Child Street (rte.
103), it's a bit out of the way for city dwellers, but well worth the trip if you happen to be a little bored with your
usual gunpowder green - or if your tea experience has until now been limited to lukewarm Salada with lemon.
As soon as I pushed through the Tea Room’s wooden door, I felt instantly at home… and simultaneously as
though I'd been whisked off my feet and dropped in North Yorkshire. The Tea Room's decor is eclectic:
whitewashed brick walls rise to meet dark rafters, comfortably upholstered chairs cluster around wooden tables,
and antiques - from painted Chinese chests to stained glass panels to framed Victorian prints - abound.
Gargoyles stand guard in every corner, and a huge mosaic of indigo and violet tiles dominates the rear of the
serving bar. There are bins along the walls for the teas, swaths of evergreen draped here and there, holiday
ornaments swinging gaily from the rafters. Despite all this, the space somehow manages to maintain an air of
cozy sophistication rather than one of clutter. Observing the policy of 'Seat Thyself', I perched on a comfortably
worn loveseat, stretched my hands out to the wood-burning stove, and shrugged off the cares of the day.
My server, Craig, appeared momentarily with a tea menu several pages in length. After much debate, I settled
on the Hapsang Souchong, a smoked black tea from China that smells like fine tobacco and tastes like …
heaven. For those who prefer their brew with a bit less kick, the Tea Room offers herbal and decaffeinated
blends, and a healthy variety of organic selections.
My Hapsang Souchong was served in a personal-sized pot, which my server covered with a quilted tea cozy (you
may remember this little convenience from Grandma's house). Creamy whole milk was set alongside, as well as
a proper metal mesh strainer. No tea bags here, darling, unless you're opting for P.G. Tips. All in all, I felt quite
upper-crust, sipping daintily on my sofa with the fire crackling and soft jazz playing in the background.
The Tea Room's luncheon menu changes daily, Craig informed me: there are usually three or four soups (all
prepared in-house by proprietress Fab Goldberg), a variety of sandwiches including a tempting Cotswold Grilled
Cheese, a mesclun salad, and a seafood dish. Food is served from 11:30 to 5 daily, later if custom demands. I
chose the 'Can't Go Wrong' ($8.95), an aptly named combo featuring a bowl of soup (I picked the carrot-cilantro)
and six adorable finger sandwiches filled with turkey and horseradish, cucumber and cream cheese, and smoked
salmon mousse.
Since it was after 3 P.M, I could have opted for the full High Tea ($13.95), which includes a house-made scone
accompanied by clotted cream and strawberry jam, a slice of cake, and a pot of piping hot tea. Next time, I
promised myself, glancing regretfully at the well-rounded desert menu. In true British fashion, a gratuity was
automatically added to my tab, which was brilliant since I have a hard time doing math on a full stomach.
All in all, I rather enjoyed my visit to the Basically British Tea Room. I expect I'll be back soon - perhaps for
dinner, which is served Friday and Saturday nights from 7-10 P.M. Cheers!
This review was written as a sample in February 2007, and later appeared in Rhode Island Gourmet & Entertainment Guide Magazine.
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