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Site Design Copyright 2008 Aphrodite, Inc.
Aphrodite, Inc.
Freelance Writing, Editing, and Design
Freelance Writing, Editing, and Design
Discover: Le Central
Bristol, RI
Bristol, RI
This review appeared in the Fall 2007 issue of Rhode Island Gourmet & Entertainment Guide Magazine
Connaissez-vous le restaurant Le Central?
Although the grand opening of Bristol’s Le Central took place on November 14, 2006, the French-inspired cuisine
prepared by chef-owner Jesse James is only now gaining the recognition it deserves among Southern New
England foodies. Indeed, most of the buzz about it seems to come from patrons, not advertising. I discovered
the restaurant through a friend, who still can’t stop raving about the lamb shank special from their winter menu.
Le Central is located on Bristol’s historic Hope Street (rte 114), just a block from the wharves, in the spot formerly
occupied by Café Le France. Enter and the space is welcoming and casual, with warm red walls, brocaded linens
draping small decorative tables, and a country-blue wood-topped bar that spans more than half the width of the
restaurant. Once inside, one almost expects to turn and find that the windows open onto a cobbled Parisian
street.
My brother and I arrived for dinner on a Saturday night at five o’clock sharp. In fact, we were the first patrons
there. Sharen, our server, was very pleasant and knowledgeable about the menu, and more than happy to
answer my questions. Chef/owner Jesse James was in the kitchen, sporting a red bandana and a spotless white
apron, getting ready for the Saturday night rush. He and his staff prepare everything on the menu from scratch
using only the freshest ingredients, Sharen told me, and the menu changes seasonally. I was disappointed that I
wouldn’t get to sample the fabled lamb shank, but the current menu was more than appealing.
There are nearly as many appetizers on Le Central’s menus as there are entrees; this season’s selection
included a classic Soupe à l’Oignon, served with Gruyère and croutes, and crab cakes with celery root remoulade
and hot pepper rouille. Although everything looked tempting, we settled on the Salade Canaille for our first
course, a mix of fresh papaya, fennel, and asparagus in a subtle dressing of crème fraiche and walnuts. The
Mussels au Feu, served in a broth of butter, parsley and garlic, were possibly the best-prepared mussels I’ve
ever tasted: the broth was flavorful but not overpowering, and the mussels almost impossibly fresh. For a main
course, I ordered the Provencal Fish Soup, which, although listed as an appetizer, was substantial enough for a
light meal. The soup was presented in a tureen with a side of croutes and hot pepper rouille: smooth, rich and
dark, it lacks the ‘fishiness’ I expected. My brother chose the pomegranate-glazed lamb chops, which arrived
perfectly cooked with a side of vegetable ratatouille. Lastly (since one simply cannot dine at a French restaurant
and forego dessert) we indulged in a wonderful crème brûlée. Chef James’ version was smooth as silk, the sugar
crust delicate and the flavor perfect.
Cherchez-vous un repas magnifique? I suggest Le Central. They’re open for lunch and dinner Monday through
Saturday, and for brunch on Sunday. Call 401-369-9965 for more information.
Although the grand opening of Bristol’s Le Central took place on November 14, 2006, the French-inspired cuisine
prepared by chef-owner Jesse James is only now gaining the recognition it deserves among Southern New
England foodies. Indeed, most of the buzz about it seems to come from patrons, not advertising. I discovered
the restaurant through a friend, who still can’t stop raving about the lamb shank special from their winter menu.
Le Central is located on Bristol’s historic Hope Street (rte 114), just a block from the wharves, in the spot formerly
occupied by Café Le France. Enter and the space is welcoming and casual, with warm red walls, brocaded linens
draping small decorative tables, and a country-blue wood-topped bar that spans more than half the width of the
restaurant. Once inside, one almost expects to turn and find that the windows open onto a cobbled Parisian
street.
My brother and I arrived for dinner on a Saturday night at five o’clock sharp. In fact, we were the first patrons
there. Sharen, our server, was very pleasant and knowledgeable about the menu, and more than happy to
answer my questions. Chef/owner Jesse James was in the kitchen, sporting a red bandana and a spotless white
apron, getting ready for the Saturday night rush. He and his staff prepare everything on the menu from scratch
using only the freshest ingredients, Sharen told me, and the menu changes seasonally. I was disappointed that I
wouldn’t get to sample the fabled lamb shank, but the current menu was more than appealing.
There are nearly as many appetizers on Le Central’s menus as there are entrees; this season’s selection
included a classic Soupe à l’Oignon, served with Gruyère and croutes, and crab cakes with celery root remoulade
and hot pepper rouille. Although everything looked tempting, we settled on the Salade Canaille for our first
course, a mix of fresh papaya, fennel, and asparagus in a subtle dressing of crème fraiche and walnuts. The
Mussels au Feu, served in a broth of butter, parsley and garlic, were possibly the best-prepared mussels I’ve
ever tasted: the broth was flavorful but not overpowering, and the mussels almost impossibly fresh. For a main
course, I ordered the Provencal Fish Soup, which, although listed as an appetizer, was substantial enough for a
light meal. The soup was presented in a tureen with a side of croutes and hot pepper rouille: smooth, rich and
dark, it lacks the ‘fishiness’ I expected. My brother chose the pomegranate-glazed lamb chops, which arrived
perfectly cooked with a side of vegetable ratatouille. Lastly (since one simply cannot dine at a French restaurant
and forego dessert) we indulged in a wonderful crème brûlée. Chef James’ version was smooth as silk, the sugar
crust delicate and the flavor perfect.
Cherchez-vous un repas magnifique? I suggest Le Central. They’re open for lunch and dinner Monday through
Saturday, and for brunch on Sunday. Call 401-369-9965 for more information.